Pool Care FAQ

Practical answers to common pool questions about chemistry, equipment, algae, leaks, maintenance, safety, and Arizona conditions from CAS.

How often should I test my pool water chemistry?

CDC recommends testing chlorine and pH at least twice a day, and more often during heavier use. Follow the test-kit directions and record results. A service visit or automatic salt generator does not replace checks between visits. Obtain additional tests such as CYA, alkalinity and calcium for diagnosis and your equipment/surface requirements. Commercial pools have their own operating requirements.

Why is my pool water cloudy?

Do not swim if the bottom cannot be clearly seen or sanitation is uncertain. Record free/combined chlorine, pH, CYA, recent treatments, water level, pump speed and filter pressure versus the clean baseline at the same speed. Poor sanitation, impaired filtration and suspended material need different corrections. Do not assume a fixed shock dose, clarifier or eight-hour schedule is the answer. Send CAS the measurements and photos before buying another product.

How long should I run my pool pump each day?

There is no universal eight- or twelve-hour schedule. Set runtime and speed for verified circulation, sanitation and the flow required by your heater, salt cell, cleaner and other features. Document each operating mode and test the water as you adjust. A longer low-speed program may be efficient, but connected devices must still work at that flow. Do not disable needed freeze protection or use one turnover calculation as proof of safe water.

What temperature should I keep my pool heater set to?

Choose a pool setpoint that fits its use and confirm the actual temperature with a reliable thermometer. For hot tubs, CDC says water should not exceed 104°F (40°C); that ceiling is not a recommended temperature for every person. Follow the heater and surface requirements. If the display and actual temperature disagree or the heater overheats, stop use and arrange qualified service. Do not alter a high-limit safety device.

How do I prepare my pool for winter?

Decide whether the pool will remain operating or be completely closed. Many Arizona pools stay open, but exposed equipment can still freeze. Confirm the exact automation/pump freeze settings and a power-loss plan; not every line is protected. Do not lower water below the skimmer while running normally. Full closure requires a model-specific draining/isolation plan rather than a generic blower or antifreeze recipe.

When should I backwash my pool filter?

Identify the filter first: cartridge filters are cleaned, not backwashed. Use the exact manufacturer’s service threshold relative to clean pressure at the same pump speed, and investigate reduced flow. For example, Clean & Clear Plus calls for service at roughly 10 psi above its original starting pressure; that does not apply to every filter. Sand/D.E. procedures and D.E. recharge differ by model. Stop the pump before changing a multiport position and use qualified service for pressurized-filter work.

How much chlorine should be in my pool?

For residential pools, CDC recommends at least 1 ppm free chlorine without CYA, or at least 2 ppm when CYA/stabilized chlorine is used, with pH 7.0–7.8. Those are minimums, not a universal treatment target or maximum. Respect chemical labels and applicable equipment, surface and local requirements. A test beyond its range needs a suitable measurement method; do not infer a safe reading from color or smell.

Why does my pool lose water?

Evaporation, splashing, backwashing, autofill faults and leaks can all change the level. Do not use a fixed daily evaporation figure to dismiss loss. Log water additions, weather and visible leaks. EPA’s 24-hour bucket comparison can identify possible excess loss when rain, wind, refilling and use are controlled; it does not locate a leak. Request help before a test that would interrupt needed freeze protection, and do not let low water cause dry pump operation.

Can I use regular salt in my saltwater pool?

Use the salt specification in the exact generator manual, not a generic bag description. The legacy IntelliChlor IC15/20/40/60 manual specifies at least 99.8% pure sodium chloride without additives and a 3600-ppm target; other models can differ. Measure existing salt independently, confirm gallons and surface startup restrictions, then use that model’s addition chart. Do not add salt merely because a warning light is on.

How do I remove algae from my pool?

Keep the pool closed while visibility or sanitation is inadequate. Collect chemistry results including CYA, verify gallons and identify the products already used. Remove accessible debris and brush with a finish-compatible tool; verify circulation and monitor filter loading. Select a label-compliant treatment from measured conditions rather than a double/triple dose. Never mix products or pre-dissolve chemicals unless their labels direct it. Persistent or recurring algae needs investigation of sanitation, circulation and filtration.